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Waves have been documented that exceed feet from crest to trough.

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Click on the image to animate. Image from Wikipedia. Waves travel with little change across the vast expanses of the open ocean, but eventually all waves must reach shore.

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As a wave approaches the coast, it becomes shorter in length and more abrupt, increasing its height. Friction with the bottom causes the trough of the wave to disappear, the crest to slow its movement, and when the depth causes the wave height to become 1. For example, if a wave that had a height of 1 meter and a wavelength of 8 meters shortens, as it comes to shore, to a wave that has a height of 1 meter and a wavelength of 5 meters, it will break.

Breaking waves may take the shape of a tube these are called plunging waves or they may simply collapse and surge forward these are called spilling waves. Image from: WIkipedia Commons.

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As waves break on shore, the turbulent water, called swash, moves up the slope of the beach toward shore. Once it runs out of energy, it flows back toward the surf zone. Its now called backwash. Depending on the strength of the surf, swash and backwash can move sand, pebbles, and stones off the surface of the beach.

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